Friday, February 29, 2008

Getting out the vote

Early this afternoon, my cellphone chirped that I'd received a new SMS message. It was from my service provider, MTS, reminding me to vote this Sunday. I should've written back that my Metro card has been reminding me about it all month.

A few pics...



In case you were wondering who Moscow's tacky and sleazy mayor is supporting, well, he is for Russia's future. Got it?

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District representatives from Putin's United Russia party who are standing in Sunday's municipal elections.

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Our candidates after embellishment by local critics.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Two presidential elections

As both nations are in the midst of choosing a new president, I took a look at how the American primary process appears from Moscow in an oped in The Boston Globe.

UPDATE (3/2): A recent article in Novye Izvestia about the primaries makes a subtle point. In passing, it reports that Barack Obama won the "Democrats Abroad" vote in Russia by 77 percent, and wryly obvserves: "Curiously, it is unknown why a Russian-language website in [Obama's] support is far more detailed than the sites of Russian presidential candidates."

(At left: It seems Moscow Metro cards this month have been put into GOTV service)

Friday, February 15, 2008

Like a galley slave

Russia is known for its bold, sweeping, intimidating, and ultimately pointless gestures. Presidential press conferences are no exception. On Thursday, Vladimir Putin met with over 1,300 reporters in the Round Hall of the Senate building in the Kremlin, and fielded an even 100 questions for a total of four hours and forty-five minutes.

Because my desk at the office faces the newsroom television, I got to catch almost every minute of it. Sure, no one would have mistaken the event for the Oxford Union, but just as a stunt it was remarkable. It would have turned George W. Bush into a weeping mess. No breaks, no notes. He met specific concerns with vague wonkishness, threw out glimpses of his uniquely coarse humor, and petulantly swatted away the handful of confrontational questions thrown at him by the western reporters who got to ask their questions.

The two things that stuck out most to me relate to how I imagine Putin's extensive spy-training must have helped him. First, he said an awful lot, but divulged incredibly little actual information. It is a real skill to be this glib. Second, just the sheer stamina of it. The lights, the attention, and to not so much as break a sweat. I actually wonder if they train for this kind of thing.

Anyway, my favorite quote was when Putin allowed his modest side to peek through...

"I can see no serious failures, I have achieved all my goals and fulfilled every task. We restored the fundamentals of the economy on a new market basis.I have nothing to be ashamed of before the citizens who twice voted for me... I have worked as hard as a galley slave in the past eight years."

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Primary day

Everytime you go to vote it's a little democratic adventure, especially when it happens in an unlikely place. Today the Russian chapter of the "Democrats Abroad" held their primary, giving me a chance to drop a ballot in this year's fierce race. There are 22 delegates up for grabs to be decided by Democrats living outside the U.S., and we'll know the results sometime midweek. Here are some pics...



First a word about getting out an about in Moscow: there are always adventures. The nearest Metro stop to the polls was at Paveletsky Station, which has you can see is undergoing a major round of renovations. Specifically, this interesting train station used to have a big public square in front of it, which is now a vast construction sight. The current thinking in central Moscow is that empty space is useless space. So they are putting up a mall, because you can never have too many places for bored New Russian housewives and mistresses to buy shiny baubles and whatnot. We've been promised that the new mall will somehow reflect the train station's design -- which judging from this awful, recently built clocktower on the right, is almost certain to be yet another architectural catastrophe.

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The view looking up Kozhyevnichyeskaya Ultisa from the station.

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A view of the
Vodootvodny Canal

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"Business centers" in Moscow have a lot of things in common: soulless, cookie-cutter modern architecture that appeals solely to 'biznesmen' who grew up in soulless, cookie-cutter Soviet architecture; lots of entrances, car-parks, and gated courtyards; and a battalion of security guards to give former security service personnel something to do with their day.

So I admit I was unsure about finding the place, let alonw what hassles would await to get inside. Turns out I needn't have worried: Russian media interest in the primary and American politics in general has been very high. So I knew when I saw the satellite trucks that I'd found the place.

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Ballot box, Moscow-style.

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You never really get far from the past in Moscow. A detail of the decorative plates atop the columns in the Paveletskaya metro station as I was heading home.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Hopemongering

I am not a big fan of hope. When you are stranded on a desert island you “hope” a plane will pass by and spot you. When you are looknig for a particular book or album or brand of cognac you “hope” that the store has it while you’re walking over. This feeling implies a loss of agency, that things have slipped beyond your control. It’s passive, irrational, and unproductive.

So I have had a hard time grappling with the fact that the Presidential candidate I am backing talks so much about it. Obama’s detractors say that he relies on a gauzy idea of “hope.” I’d agree it is a bad choice of words.

It is a more complicated thing. I was struck by what writer Michael Chabon said recently at an Obama rally in San Francisco:

"You know what I needed to do before I could decide to support Barack Obama for president? I had to give myself permission to feel hope. That's almost kind of sad, isn't it? I had to tell myself that it is OK. That it would be all right if I allowed myself to acknowledge the possibility that we can aspire as a nation. That we can aspire to be more than merely secure or predominant. That we could apsire to build and to heal not just to patch and prop up. We can aspire to come together not just come to terms."

So on Tuesday there is a clear choice between Obama and Clinton. It is an incredibly rare opportunity for the poliics of vindictiveness, double-talk, self-pity, self-absorption, “inevitability,” and “triangulation” to be routed once and for all in just a few hours.

Hillary is running on experience, but what she accomplished as the junior senator of New York other than voting for a disastrous war is beyond me. In 2000, the NY Democratic party cleared a path for the wife of the president, and she roundly beat heavyweight Rick Lazio that November. When she says “experience,” she’s actually talking about living in the same house as a president whose greatest accomplishments were pissing away a critical historical moment and alienating every left-leaning American from the Democratic party. What is to be proud of in all this?

And this time around, the Clintons have not campaigned in a way that makes us proud. Just prior to Nevada, the Clintonoids began going on about Obama’s remarks that the GOP has been the party of ideas for the past 15 years. He didn’t say he agreed with them, just that they have set the agenda – and it is impossible to deny this. The only ideas the Clintons have given us we could do without – semantically proving that blow-jobs aren’t really sex, and that crying on command is a new method of feminist empowerment. I hate the way the Clintons make me think about politics and my country.

An obnoxious meme has been making the rounds is an appreciation of the Clintons’ sharp-elbowed, knee-in-the-crotch style of politics because it is the only way to beat those mean old Republicans. This is bogus from the start. The only Democrat the Republicans are not afraid of is Hillary – they’ve been fighting this fight for 16 years. They know how to handle this, and are itching for the opportunity to rally the nation against her.

There are important principles at stake here. We should take a page from the great leaders of non-violence resistance, whose basic guiding principles I feel can be summed up simply: You need to believe in your cause strong enough that you will survive setbacks. You must believe that a reasonable person acting in good faith, if given all the facts, could be persuaded to see your side of things. And you must never stoop to the other side’s level. When you do, a major firewall between right and wrong vanishes, and the fight becomes about cynically and nihilistically beating the other guy, rather than creating something better.

We’ve stooped a lot with the Clintons, and look what it got us. We achieved a number of tactical victoires – they kept Republicans from destroying Social Security, they fought off a bogus impeachment effort. But strategically, the party has suffered nothing but a string of defeats since 1968, which was accelerated by the Clinton administration.

The pundit class has made much of Obama’s refusal to play dirty. For over a year now they’ve sniped that he isn’t tough enough. But here’s the thing: this is what a clean and honest campaign looks like. This is exactly the thing everyone who has been turned off by modern politics has been waiting for. It is something to be proud of.

And it is not something that is merely nice and pleasant and quaint. It is essential. I think Chabon hit the nail on the head with this. Obama has given us a chance to think beyond the nuts and bolts, and to actually reset the whole system.

I think most people who have dealt with a larger-than-ordinary case of the blues know the feeling that comes after a while, when you realize that you’ve come to like being miserable too much. It’s easy, it’s something you can count on. But sometimes, you are blessed with a moment when you have the right kind of eyes and the right set of circumstances, and you can see that all you need to do is stand up and walk out of it. That it is all up to you, see things like new, to take the Joy Division disc out of heavy rotation and pop in the Polyphonic Spree or whatnot, to realize how much you love the family and friends around you, the place where you are living, the weather and the light on that given day, and on and on.

Obama in 2008 is the political equivalent of that moment.